Naser Khosrow’s Safarnameh: A Journey Through the 11th-Century Islamic World

From the dusty caravan routes of Greater Khorasan to the bustling markets of Cairo and the sacred precincts of Mecca, Naser Khosrow’s Safarnameh stands as one of the medieval Islamic world’s most vivid travelogues. Equal parts pilgrimage narrative, cultural survey, and philosophical reflection, it offers modern readers a window into the politics, religion, and daily life of the 11th century.

The Man Behind the Journey

Born in 1003 CE in Qubadian (in today’s Badakhshan, Afghanistan), Naser Khosrow rose to prominence as a secretary and financial official in the Ghaznavid and early Seljuk administrations. Despite his worldly success, a powerful dream in late 1045 prompted him to forsake courtly life and embark on a spiritual quest. His destination: the Hajj to Mecca—but his route would take him far beyond the well-trodden path.

Setting Forth: March 5, 1046

On 5 March 1046, Naser Khosrow departed Marw (near modern-day Mary, Turkmenistan), accompanied by his brother Abu Sa‘id and an Indian attendant. Rather than heading directly south, he journeyed northwest toward the Caspian Sea, determined to observe firsthand the diversity of Islamic societies. His painstakingly kept journal would later be compiled into the Safarnameh—literally, “Book of Travels.”

Crossing Iran, Armenia, and Asia Minor

From Khorasan, Khosrow traversed:

• Northern and Western Iran: Brief but insightful sketches of cities like Nishapur, where he notes justice and social order.

• Christian Armenia: Observations on market customs and religious minorities.

• Asia Minor (Anatolia): He marvels at the fortifications of Mayyafariqin and Amid (modern Diyarbakır), praising …